May 17, day 14 Bandon to Gold Beach

May 17, day 14 Bandon to Gold Beach

Starting odo 6791

I'm getting off late, which I suppose is pretty much the normal state
of things. I ride into Bandon from the state park to eat breakfast and
access my email and post the last two days blog entries. I've stopped
at a coffee shop/cafe and order two eggs, toast, hash browns and
bacon. She asks coffee with that?  I say I don't drink coffee, and she
asks what do I drink? And the tone makes it clear that she's faced
with some strange animal that has never been seen before, and there
might be a problem meeting it's dietary requirements!  I say diet
coke, and she says there are some in the cooler down there. I've got
some poweraide to finish from last night so I drink that.

After leisurely eating and charging my devices I backtrack to get back
onto the official route. I could have just taken 101 through town
because the route rejoins 101 at the other side of Bandon, but
sometimes the route is not just avoiding traffic. In this case I am
taken by very dramatic views of the ocean from high cliffs, and it is
entirely worth the extra milage to backtrack.

From Bandon the route follows 101 through "ordinary" countryside,
passing through Langlois, Denmark, and Sixes to reach Port Orford.

There I stop at the Crazy Norwegen to eat their fish tacos.  They are
good, but not exactly what I might have envisioned. There is a hard,
or rather, leathery taco shell with a large piece of battered fish in
the bottom, some chipole mayo sauce, diced tomatoes, and topped with
Cole slaw. Still, it was tasty with the fish being cooked perfectly
and not tasting greasy - I bought a second order!

Levying the Crazy Norwegen fish and chips shop, I am immediately
confronted with another one of those spectatular views, so I stop and
take a picture... And another and another. Progress is slow due to
picture taking and a headwind until I reach Humbug Mountain state
park. I whip into the park for a pit stop and it's a beautiful park. I
wish I was staying there tonight, but I've decided to try for Gold
Beach, as I need a laundromat - all my clothes are dirty!

Time is running short and I'm not sure that I'll get to Gold Beach
before nightfall , although it should be possible as it's only 27
miles and I have about two hours left. But now the route diverges from
the most direct path, 101, and takes some back roads. I ponder taking
the direct route. Sometimes it seems to me they are sadistic, taking
me through the most difficult path, only to avoid a little traffic.
But sometimes it also takes you to wonderful places. So I turn off on
Cedar Valley Road, which follows Cedar Creek up into the mountains. To
my surprise the road climbs only gently through this beautiful valley.
It's very quiet, and I'm only passed by 3 cars for the next 14 miles.
After about 5 miles the road starts descending through grandiose
scenery to the Rogue river. I would be going about 25+ mph at this
point except for picture taking. I have ceased to care about when I
might arrive in Gold Beach, this diversion was totally worth it!  At
one point I see a 10 year old girl walk up to the middle of the road
and jump on her unusual looking skateboard, riding straight down the
middle of the road. As I pass, I say nice skateboard! She is totally
shocked to hear my voice and jumps off the skateboard! I hadn't meant
to scare her!  The other thing of note is that I am being pelted by
bugs, almost like rain as I breeze down the road.

From there, the route follows the rogue river back to 101 with few
obstacles, and I easily make good speed to  arrive in Gold Beach
before nightfall!

I check in to a conveniently located motel 6 (which has a laundry!),
and rush across the street to have a bowl of clam chowder just before
the restaurant closes.